Commander X16

Thanks for the elaboration

 

On 10/27/2022 at 9:34 AM, Strider said:

USER input can be used for anything. It's just a generic input. ? 

Most user input is generic ?

 

On 10/27/2022 at 12:39 PM, Edmond D said:

Thanks for the elaboration



 



Most user input is generic ?



 

Indeed! ?

 

Quick final update for the next few days, time for me to go back to work, so I have to stop until my next day off.

The build is getting closer! Just a couple more prints, some drilling and cutting, then to move all the LEDs and buttons to the front panel.

Here is a quick look at what I have so far, you can get an idea of what the inside will look like. MBC2 on bottom, uTerm above it on the left side, SD card and RTC modules above it somewhat centered (on the two posts that are visible - the post extensions are currently printing). I wanted to not only make it look reasonably nice, but make it easy to service should the need arise. I even went so far as to print the schematics, bill of materials, and layout diagrams and will be placing them inside the case like they used to do with electronics.

Can't wait to get it done so I can just enjoy it! ?

The internal supports are complete!

All that's left are the front/back panels and to move the lights/switches. ?

One step forward ... one more backwards...

Modifications keep happening to account for issues that arise as I build it.

1. 
   Front panel layout had to change one last time.
   


2. 
   Back panel will be a 3D print.
   


3. 
   I need to find something to go around the front panel LEDs. The vinyl around the holes is messy so I want to cover that, like with the buttons.
   


4. 
   No power button on front, just no room. It may end up being external, we'll see. If I want it internal, that means more modifications.
   


5. 
   I need to order some right angle connectors. The connections on the uTerm are sticking up too high so I can't put the top on the case as of yet.
   

Still....it's SLOWLY coming together, and it still works after moving the LEDs and buttons to the front panel!

It looks very well made!  I appreciate that you've documented your construction - it's been enjoyable reading.

On 11/6/2022 at 2:48 PM, Strider said:

Modifications keep happening to account for issues that arise as I build it.

I've been working on building a greenhouse from repurposed items (windows, doors, wood, ect) for nearly 2 years - 1.75 years too long ! During that time I came up with this line to tell people how the project was going - " I design as best I can, construct a part, then go back to design around the flaws I built in." It's been multiple stages. I do let them know I'm a computer electronics technologist and NOT a carpenter. I know I'm working outside my area of expertise; my wife is kind to accept my limitations.

There's a certain joy to software development, in that it's just really electronic text files that can be changed, redesigned/rebuilt as needed, unless someone has to work around someone else's bugs .? 

Perhaps one of the many LED holders would frame the LEDs - https://www.mouser.ca/c/optoelectronics/led-indication/led-mounting-hardware/?product=LED Holders

Yeah, I'm new to this level of design and modification, but I'm learning! ?

For my LED holder/bezels, I'm looking at 4 options...

1. 
   Black Plastic: https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Emitting-Display-Mounting-Holders/dp/B086JM3WMM/
   


2. 
   Chrome Plated Copper Style #1: https://www.amazon.com/DaierTek-Holder-Copper-Chrome-Emitting/dp/B07WNMNS9P/
   


3. 
   Chrome Plated Copper Style #2: https://www.amazon.com/outstanding-25-Pack-Copper-Emitting-Holder/dp/B07D9JL55L/
   


4. 
   Aluminum: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083QB7VCB/
   

It's a toss up between #3 and #4 I think.

They offer a better viewing angle and if I add washers to cover more, it will look like it belongs there. Plus, I want to keep the silver theme.

 

EDIT: To make everything still fit, had to go with 3MM LEDs instead of the 5MM I was using. That keeps the bezels at 5.8M instead of 7.5MM.

Ordered these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083Q9QMN4 & https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C3W6NSK

@Strider It's hard to read the text on your blog https://theclassicgeek.blogspot.com/ because the black text is almost at the same light level as the PCB "green" background which also kind of works like a camouflage. If the background is blurred a bit and then brightened towards white. It would a lot easier to read.

 

 

On 11/6/2022 at 11:54 PM, neutrino said:

@Strider It's hard to read the text on your blog https://theclassicgeek.blogspot.com/ because the black text is almost at the same light level as the PCB "green" background which also kind of works like a camouflage. If the background is blurred a bit and then brightened towards white. It would a lot easier to read.

That's odd, the background is static, foreground behind text is black and moves over it, and text is white. Should be easy to read. What browser you using? It should look like the screenshot below.

On 11/6/2022 at 7:25 PM, Strider said:

had to go with 3MM LEDs

I had to laugh when I read this on the LED page:

• 
  Compatible with: Indicator Lights, DIY PCB Circuit, Arduino, Raspberry Pi, hobby, Science Experiments, Colorful Throwies Project, Breadboard, T1 T-1 Bulb, Bulk 3.2v 3.3v Parts Replacement,Invisible Black Light
  

Note sure how a electronic component would be incompatible with any electric circuit.

And this point fails the logic test: "Invisible Black Light" These three words don't go together ?, Something was lost in translation perhaps?

Jokes aside, I do hope they work out on the front panel without having to rebuild it from scratch.

 

 

 

In theory, if you were to have a UV emitting LED that didn't have any visible light output, it would only be detectable when striking objects that fluoresce under UV illumination. In practice, of course, there's almost always a little bit of parasitic visible light. ?